Leaks, clogs, drains and water problems—what to try and when to stop.
There is no universal normal run frequency for a sump pump. In a dry home it may sit idle for weeks, while during heavy rain it can cycle every few minutes. What matters is comparison with that home's usual pattern and whether each cycle lowers the water, stops, and discharges it away from the foundation.
Water around a faucet base can come from an internal seal that leaks while water runs, the joint between faucet and counter, or ordinary splash collecting there. Dry the whole area and watch exactly when moisture returns. That timing prevents dismantling the faucet for a leak that is actually below the sink or coming from the spout.
A diverter that will not send full flow to the shower may have mineral buildup, worn seals, or a broken internal mechanism. A common sign is water continuing from the tub spout after the shower is selected. Before replacing parts, identify whether the diverter is in the spout, a three-way valve, or integrated into the control.
A pilot light that will not stay lit can be caused by drafts, a failed thermocouple or sensor, a dirty pilot, gas control problems, or combustion issues. Do not adjust gas valves or defeat safety devices. If you smell or hear leaking gas, leave the home without operating lights or phones and contact the gas utility or emergency services from outside.
A sump pump can run for long periods during heavy rain or snowmelt, but if it never stops after the water level drops, check inflow, the float, check valve, and discharge. Continuous operation wears the motor and can hide a drainage problem. Keep hands and extension cords away from water and limit checks to accessible controls.
A sump pump that will not start may have lost power, have a blocked float, a clogged discharge, or a failed motor. Because it operates around water, electrical safety comes first: do not touch wet plugs, cords, or the pump while connected. Begin with observations from a dry location.
There is no single refill interval for water-softener salt. It depends on water use, hardness, system capacity, and regeneration settings. Rather than refilling on a fixed calendar, inspect the brine tank regularly and keep the level within the manufacturer-recommended range. A high-use household with hard water will consume salt much faster than a low-demand one.
When several drains slow down or back up at the same time, the restriction is often downstream of where their pipes join rather than in each individual trap. A toilet bubbling when the washer drains, or water rising in a low shower, points toward a main-line restriction. Avoid sending large volumes of water down the system while you determine the scope.
Mineral scale in a faucet aerator can reduce flow and distort the stream. Cleaning means removing the aerator when the design allows it, preserving the order of its parts, dissolving compatible deposits, and rinsing before reassembly. EPA WaterSense recommends inspecting aerators for scale buildup and cleaning or replacing them as needed.
Shutting off water to the whole house means operating the main indoor supply valve or, in some homes, a valve near the meter. During a major leak, close the accessible valve in its intended direction, open a faucet to confirm flow falls, and do not force a corroded valve that could break.
The main water shutoff is usually near the point where the supply line enters the home, but its location varies with climate, construction type, and meter placement. It may be in a basement, garage, utility room, protected exterior wall, or meter box. Finding it before a leak is far easier than during an emergency.
Most toilets have a small shutoff valve on the wall or floor behind the bowl. To stop a tank leak or prepare for service, close it gently and then flush to confirm the tank does not refill. Do not force an old valve that is seized.
